It's a hot night in Baghdad, and the national theater is packed with people who are here to see the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra.
They're fanning themselves with programs that show conductor Karim Wasfi, a striking man with thick eyebrows and a pointed beard, playing the cello. Tonight, he'll be conducting for the first time in more than a year.
Iraq has been in the headlines lately, with extremists taking over parts of the country, American airstrikes, the militias and the politics.
But the country was once a sophisticated center for learning and the arts.